Le Match Cosméto: baby moisturizing cream
Love & Green Versus Topicrem
In this section, we will regularly present to you two comparable products from two different brands, one from the “conventional” cosmetics sector, the other from the certified organic cosmetics sector. These products will compete on the same ground: the comparison of components. The commentator accompanies you throughout the match and explains the rules of the game, when they are not entirely clear.
Time for the match: may the best win.
For this match, we have chosen to compare a classic among baby and toddler care; moisturizing cream for babies.
Essential daily products for all parents who want to take care of their babies with suitable products. In the comparison of the two products that follow, we will have the same objective: to take care of the delicate skin of babies and toddlers, by applying the moisturizing baby cream after bathing or washing, for example.
But on one side we mainly use synthetic components, a moisturizing cream for babies which contains some questionable substances which slip between the lines and on the other side we play the “natural” card, with guarantees of a certified organic product.
Time for the match, presentation of the teams:
TOPICREM
My 1st Ultra-Moisturizing Milk 200ml
Ultra-hydrating baby milk
100 ml,
€9.90
On the brand’s website, we find the description of the following baby moisturizing cream:
“My 1st Ultra-Hydrating Milk 200ml “Sensitive and dry skin /Hydrates 24 hours*, protects, soothes
Penetrates instantly/ Face and body/ My 1st Ultra-Hydrating Milk nourishes, protects and hydrates babies’ delicate skin. Creamy emulsion, penetrates instantly, with a delicate scent of orange blossom. Tested under dermatological and pediatric controls. A creamy milk. Light and enveloping fragrance with notes of bergamot, mandarin, orange blossom and ambergris. *Instrumental test on 22 subjects”
Ingredients/ INCI:
AQUA (WATER) . PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL). GLYCERIN. CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE. UREA. ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE. CERA ALBA (BEESWAX) . PALMITIC ACID. STEARIC ACID. GLYCERYL STEARATE. PEG-100 STEARATE. POLYSORBATE 60. XANTHAN GUM. 1,2-HEXANEDIOL. SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE. SODIUM ACRYLATE/ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/DIMETHYLACRYLAMIDE CROSSPOLYMER. ISOHEXADECANE. GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE. CARBOMER. CHLORPHENESIN. SODIUM HYDROXIDE.PERFUME (FRAGRANCE)
Ingredient analysis – Topicrem baby moisturizing cream
Analysis of ingredients – Topicrem baby moisturizing cream
Ingredients evaluated according to the site’s INCI research
What if we took the time to analyze the composition of this baby moisturizing cream?
As always, it is the first 5-8 components which mainly constitute the overall profile of the product, – even if the analysis always focuses on the entire formula.
And in second position, just after water, we already find mineral oil in larger quantities, (PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM), which will be joined further down in the formula by other substances derived from mineral oils , of the ISOHEXADECANE type. Mineral oils do not offer the same quality of care as authentic vegetable oils or waxes and can pose problems on different levels. Mineral oils can, for example, sometimes also contain impurities of the MOSH and MOAH type. These are aromatic hydrocarbons, substances classified as potentially carcinogenic, with a problem of accumulation in tissues.
Do you think this warning is exaggerated?
The German consumer magazine Oekotest regularly finds traces of these substances in tests of cosmetic products that contain ingredients based on mineral oils: lipsticks (2018 test), mascara (2021), creams baby diaper (2023), oil against stretch marks (2022) etc. All petrochemical products (such as mineral oils used in cosmetics) also represent a significant environmental problem in themselves – because they come from an industry which has a disastrous impact on the environment and the climate.
Although the formula happily mixes mineral oils, glycerin, different emollients and beeswax, it will not be able to compete with a moisturizer, whose hydration will be based on vegetable oils or waxes, with their precious plant substances secondary, which also participate in overall care.
To summarize the question of mineral oils and vegetable oils:
Component analysis:
Other controversial substances also slipped into the formula:
- Several PEGs: , these are ethoxylated materials. Obtained from extremely reactive and toxic gases, resulting from a chemical process which requires the strictest safety measures.PEGs are also likely to make the skin barrier more permeable to other substances and are not very biodegradable, therefore polluting.
- The synthetic polymer Isohexadecane, from petrochemicals, see explanation above
- Polysorbate 60: see also PEG
- SODIUM ACRYLATE/ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/DIMETHYLACRYLAMIDE film-forming agent, viscosity regulator, synthetic polymer
- The “Perfume” indicated in the INCI list can also sometimes pose a problem: given that it is a non-certified product (in natural and organic cosmetics) there is a good chance that it is a synthetic perfume, which can be problematic if it contains, for example, phthalates (endocrine disruptors). Dietyl phthalate is often found in perfumes as a “fixing agent” (which allows the perfume to be fixed over time and makes the perfumes less volatile). In this specific case, it is not necessary to declare it in the INCI list. To systematically avoid the presence of phthalates, it is preferable to choose a certified product; synthetic perfumes are simply not authorized by the different specifications for natural and organic cosmetics.
- Carbomer, an environmentally problematic gelling agent because it is polluting
- The synthetic preservative Chlorphenesin: an organo-halogenated substance which can cause allergenic effects and is problematic because it is likely to accumulate in the body. Also an environmental problem, it is a polluting substance.
Verdict:
A so-called “gentle” formula for “sensitive and dry skin” which contains several very controversial, and potentially also irritating, compostants. Components from petrochemicals (mineral oils and derivatives), PEGs, highly polluting synthetic polymers and a synthetic preservative that is a little too strong for this type of formula. With some more natural and gentle substances in the middle, but the much-vaunted natural beeswax is simply poorly accompanied in this formula. Not only are we a little far from a formula oriented towards the care of “the most delicate skin,” but we continue to use a large number of substances which happily pollute the environment in which baby will grow. Really not great, this Topicrem cream.
Let’s pass the buck to the competition’s product
Love & Green
Face and Body Moisturizing Cream
Certified Organic
500 ml,
€8.80
Here is the manufacturer’s presentation of the product:
“The facial moisturizer & Body Love & Green is certified ORGANIC by ECOCERT. Enriched with natural cold cream, it deeply hydrates baby’s skin for a long time. To be used after bathing or as soon as the skin is drier (in winter for example). Its fragrance-free formula is suitable for all skin types, even sensitive and reactive.From birth.
Product benefits:
With natural cold cream: With organic aloe vera extract, soothing organic orange blossom water, moisturizing sunflower oil and beeswax
99% natural origin formula
✨ Fragrance and allergen free
100% plant-based bottle
❤️ Made in France”
Let’s take the time to check the composition of the product by analyzing more closely the list of components, the INCI list of this baby moisturizing cream:
Ingredients/ INCI:
AQUA, CETYL ALCOHOL, OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL*, C14-22 ALCOHOLS, COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, C12-20 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, SODIUM LEVULINATE, CITRIC ACID, SODIUM BENZOATE, ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICE POWDER* , SODIUM HYDROXIDE.
Ingredients evaluated according to the site’s INCI research
Component analysis:
As always, it is the first 8-10 components which mainly constitute the “overall profile” of the product. The moisturizing part is provided here from the start by a basic formulation consisting of organic olive oil, fatty alcohols (with moisturizing properties, not to be confused with alcohol/ethanol), some mild additives, organic aloe vera extract and a gentle preservation system. A gentle formulation, respectful of delicate skin and perfectly suited for a baby moisturizing cream.
Verdict:
A moisturizing cream with a gentle formula, suitable for the delicate skin of little ones… and their environment… Perfect for gently taking care of the skin, while respecting the planet. Love & Green lives up to its name, in the end.
How to choose a baby moisturizer?
1) Avoid ingredients from petrochemicals (mineral oils such as Petrolatum, etc.) and silicones
Apart from the issues of mineral oil derivatives; We still too often find silicones in cosmetic products; these substances make it possible to create homogeneous textures, at a lower price. However, they represent a heavy toll on the environment, because they are not or very poorly biodegradable.
And a product for babies that does not also respect the environment in which they will grow up…is really problematic.
Once again the choice of natural and organic cosmetics seems the most relevant, silicones and ingredients derived from mineral oils are simply not authorized in certified organic cosmetics. If the product is not certified by a natural and organic cosmetics label, it is best to check the list of ingredients.
2) Favor creams with purely natural moisturizing factors
Choosing baby creams is crucial to maintaining the health and comfort of your little one’s delicate skin. It is important to take several factors into account when choosing the products best suited to your skin. First of all, it is essential to know your baby’s skin type. Some creams are specially formulated for dry, very dry, sensitive or normal skin.Depending on the needs of your child’s skin, you can opt for moisturizing, nourishing, soothing or repairing products. It is also important to choose creams containing natural moisturizing ingredients such as olive oil, sweet almond oil, shea butter, argan oil, glycerin or fatty alcohols. These ingredients help maintain the skin’s hydration and strengthen its skin barrier. Aloe vera, almond oil, jojoba and vegetable oils are gentle and nourishing ingredients for your baby’s skin. These ingredients provide care and hydration, without adding to overall pollution. Also be sure to choose creams appropriate to your child’s age. Some products are specifically designed for infants, while others are suitable for older children.
3) Check the entire formula
If the product is not certified by a natural and organic cosmetics label, it is best to check the list of ingredients. You can use the site’s search engine and delve deeper into the subjects in the different articles.
Still too often, we also find in baby and toddler products many controversial, potentially toxic substances such as suspected or proven endocrine disruptors, polluting substances such as micro plastics or PFAS (Eternal Pollutants) and a large number of number of other substances which pose problems at different levels.
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